Thank you all for your kind feedback on my Lincoln's Watch quilt! I am still really happy with and excited about this quilt. Sorry I was gone a couple of days. My computer completely crashed (not its fault....I know what I did to cause it!) and had to have the hard drive revived by the IT people at work. I can't believe how crippled I feel without my computer (both work-wise and home-wise!).
I forgot to tell you that I plan to use Lincoln's Watch on this antique daybed I inherited from my aunt, who inherited it from my great aunt when she passed away about 20 years ago. I am so happy to have it, and it's going to go in our study when that is finished. I think it will be great on that. (I need to redo the mattress on the daybed, etc, before I display everything together. I'll follow up with you on that when it's done.)
Also, I drove Lincoln's Watch up to Grand Rapids on Wednesday. Pat Yamin is going to display it in her booth at the AQS show. I'm pretty excited about that. I'll try to get a photo for you on Saturday, when I go to pick it up.
I put the label on the quilt, and I thought you might like a tutorial on how I do my labels. Not that it's the best way, but it's a way that works for me. I know a few people who read this blog are somewhat new to quilting, so I thought it would be of help to them.
Before I get to that, I wanted to make you aware of a couple of other tutorials I used to help give me a really professional finish on this quilt.
First, I used Kathy's (of Stitch by Stitch) tutorial on Perfectly Cut Binding to cut my binding strips. You can find it here:
http://kathystitchbystitch.blogspot.com/2012/07/how-to-make-bias-binding-tutorial.html
I blogged a tip to further help you match up and sew those binding strips here.
Then, recently Sew Modern posted a really awesome video tutorial on their blog for how to join your binding when you get to the end of attaching your binding to the quilt. I have a couple of tools that help with this, but I alwasy find them cumbersome, and sometimes they don't work well. This tutorial was WAYYYY easier than any of my tools, and it worked perfectly. If you haven't seen Perfect Fit Binding Tutorial from Sew Modern yet, you should check it out. Here's where you can view it.
http://thatswhatshesewed.com/2012/07/19/perfect-fit-binding-video-tutorial/
Now, here's how I do my labels (the photo below is NOT the label the tutorial is for...keep reading):
My plan was to use this leftover block for the label. I was going to hand write the information on the label, because I always hear people say it's nice to have your own handwriting on the block. Well, I just didn't like it when I was done!
And besides, I misspelled Lincoln when I wrote it and hand to cover it up with something; hence the black ribbon bow on this part of the block. In the trash this went, and I went back to my old standby way of doing things!
I begin by going on my computer and typing the information I want to have on my quilt label. After I get all this information typed and looking pleasing to me, I print it on one of the many pre-treated pieces of fabric for your inkjet printer. You can see here I'm using a product by Jacquard. But I've used many different brands. I haven't noticed a lot of difference, although there may be differences. Just follow the instructions on the package for how to do this. It is very, very easy.
EDIT: Make sure you choose a product that states you can wash the fabric after you print on it with your inkjet printer, or else your ink will run. Some of these products give you more permanence than others. Make sure your ink will be permanently set after you print on it. The product I am using is called Jacquard Ink Jet Printing Cotton. Here is one source, if you can't find it locally. I have used other brands successfully as well. This happens to be the one I have in my cabinet at this time. The key is to read the label and make sure the package says it will be permanent (some will have you heat set the ink with an iron....this particular one does not require that). This one lets you use it on t-shirts, quilts, and more....all of which need to be washed.
Here is a close-up shot of what is on my label: I typically include the name of the quilt, the name of the designer, my
name, where I live, who quilted it, where that person lives (if it's not
me), and a date. On this one, I included when I started it and when I
completed it. If I am making the quilt for someone else, I often put
their name on it as well. I chose this particular font for this label because it mimicks the font that Bonnie Blue Quilts tends to use for their logo. I just thought it fit this quilt.
Next, I trim this up to have a 1-inch border around the outermost text.
For example, the word "Began" in the last line of text is the lower and most outer word on this side. So, I line up my 1-inch mark here and cut both sides of this corner. Then, I rotate the fabric and so the same thing for the uppermost text.
Now, it looks like this. At this point, I will peel the paper off the back. (The fabric is stuck to a piece of paper to help it run through your printer smoothly.)
Next, I'll grab a scrap of fabric from some of my blocks and cut strips to border my label with.
I sort of eyeball what I think will look good, given the size of my label. In this case, I decided I wanted a 1-inch border, so I cut my strips 1 1/2 inches.
I cut four strips. One for each side of my label.
Next, I cut two of the strips to match the length of two of my label sides. Here I decided to do the sides first.
I sew those to the sides using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. I usually use a thread that matches better. I'd like to say I used this light colored thread for your benefit. But, truth be told, I was simply too lazy to change the tread in my machine. How bad is that?!
I press them open, with seam allowances toward my borders. (I don't want to see them behind the white fabric.)
Next, I cut the remaining two strips of fabric to match the length of the top and bottom of my label.
Sew them on.
Press open, with seam allowances going toward the border. Looking good! Now, you could apply this to your quilt using a needle-turn applique method, or you could press 1/4 inch under all the way around and applique this on your quilt. But I don't do that for several reasons.
- I stink at needle-turn applique.
- I don't always get the sides pressed just right and am sometimes not happy with the finish if I just press them under.
- Sometimes, this white fabric is thin enough, you can see your backing fabric through it.
So......here's what I do next.
I use a trick I learned from Eleanor Burns and Fons & Porter along the way. They use this method for some of their applique projects. I get myself some lightweight, fusible interfacing like this Pellon product. This is what I used in this case.
I use my label as a template, and I cut a square of interfacing exactly the same size as my bordered label.
I put the interfacing on top of my label, GLUE SIDE FACING THE RIGHT SIDE OF MY LABEL. I know that seems backwards, but that's what you want to do. (You'll know which side is the glue side, because if you run your hand along both sides of the interfacing, one side will feel bumpy. That side is the glue side. The bumps are little dots of glue.) So, in this photo, the glue dots are on the inside, they are not facing me.
Using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, sew ALL THE WAY AROUND the block. You don't need to leave an opening for turning.
Grab the middle of your label and the middle of your interfacing, one in each hand. Separate them a little so that you can make a small slit in your interfacing. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT YOUR LABEL!
See how I have made a slit in my interfacing, but my label is still intact?
Now, clip your corners if you like, and turn your label rightside out through the slit. I like to take a chopstick and poke out my corners so that they are nice and pointy.
Here is how it should look on the front now. Your raw edges are all to the inside. Your label is facing out.
Here is how it looks on the back. My fingers are touching the glue dots, as they are facing out.
Take it to your ironing board and press it neatly. MAKE SURE YOU PUT A TEFLON PRESSING SHEET UNDER YOUR BLOCK, OR YOU WILL FUSE IT TO YOUR IRONING BOARD!
When you are done, you can peel it off your teflon pressing sheet easily.
Next, I lay my quilt on the ironing board and position my quilt label where I want it. I often put it in one of the lower corners of the quilt. See how nice that border sets it off from the backing fabric?
Next, follow the instructions that came with your fusible interfacing and fuse the label to your quilt.
Here, I am rubbing my finger along the edge, and sure enough, my label is stuck down. This is awesome, because my raw edges are already turned, and I don't even have to pin my label before stitching it on. Think of this fusing as a temporary basting to hold your label in place while you stitch it.
Next, I take a needle and thread and blind stitch the label onto the back of the quilt, just like I stitch the binding down on the back of the quilt. I use a thread that matches my border fabric.
When you are pressing your label, try to make sure the interfacing is turned all the way to the back so it's not peeking out like this. But if you do get some peeking out like this, don't worry.
Just use your thumb to pull some fabric over that edge as you blind stitch the label on. That will roll that white interfacing to the back.
See how it doesn't show now?
And here is my finished label. It is nice and neat. It is exactly where I want it to be, and it is not wrinkled (these are two problems I have had with pinning the label on my quilt). The interfacing keeps that dark backing fabric from showing through my label. The label doesn't have my handwriting on it for posterity. I suppose I could sign the label, if I really wanted my handwriting on it. But I like how nice and neat this looks, compared to that first example I showed you!
Well, that's how I do it. I know there are lots of ways to apply labels, but for me, this works well, it produces the results I like, and it is not difficult at all. I think I completed this entire label, including all the hand sewing in about an hour.
I hope you found this helpful!
Until next time,